Sunday, June 29, 2008

Milan & Paris Mens Spring 2009 Part One

Well its that time a year again and everyone has hit Milan and left it behind for Paris so lets round up some of what has been seen and was good, bad, ugly, and plain forgettable.

Part One Consists of:
Jil Sander
Comme Des Garcons
Number (N)ine
Maison Martin Margiela

Part Two Will Be:
Ann Demeulemeester
Raf Simons
Richard Chai
Burberry Prorsum

Jil Sander Well Raf this was an interesting one, broken up by horizontal color blocks and accented by shaped zipper pulls this was an interesting collection. Raf dipped into the pigments and came out with severalslightly pieces that were brought forth images of a neopolotan ice cream. Similar childhood memories came to mind with the use of over sized triangle, circle, and square zipper pulls, but enough with the negatives Raf signature shrunken sillouhete was there and when the color pallet was kept more neutral or dark the pieces were absolutely fantastic.

Comme Des Garcons
Black, white, charcoals, greys, skirts, oh wait what was the last one? Oh yes indeed I said skirts, Rei has thrown the skirts into the mix of mens wear in an extremely wearable way. Whether it was a crisp hospital white paired with an jet black slim fitting structured belted jacket or just drappy with an over sized charcoal workwear styled jacket. Rei made it work. Shorts over leggings were there too and done so well. This was such a wonderfully dark collection with well chosen and playful splashes of color here and there. A night at Wayne manor if a young Bruce was a bit tipsy and swinging both ways would be a great way to explain it.

Number (n)ine
Number (n)ine traded in their typically dark (or grunge/cowboy) look for a spooky yet dandy show of ghostly whites and selective dandy touches. White wigs adorned the heads of all the boys who wore layers from head to toe, waist coats, jackets, shorts over pants, muted palettes which transitioned into more bold patterns and colors as the show went on. The layers kept coming the wigs turned from white to black to blue and back to black and the florals made their way on to some fantastic shoes. The looks were focused but all over the map at the same time boho, jester, western barkeep all made and appearance. Overall there was something about the layers and the skitzo-ness that I dug because underlying it all it remained so well tied together.

Maison Martin Margiela
Oh the muted colors, the fabrics, the proportions, the ugh everythingness about it. MMM did it so well. All the looks that are so carefully curated going up to a show and MMM makes it look so easy and casual. Everything in this presentation was done so beautifully its rather difficult to put into words. Margiela took the male legging to a whole other level I don't think anyone was ready for but still as outrageous as chrome leggings are on a man Margiela still made you go
"Well hmm disco legs aren't so bad"

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